Christmas surprise: the best panettone comes from Liguria

Zino: “It’s my passion, I’ve been working on it for 10 years”. It will be in the final at 14 in Milan with the best of Italy

Daniele Miccione

The Gazzetta competition is a bit like the Risiko del panettone. Year after year it conquers territories. We started – somewhat surprisingly – from the south of Alfonso Pepe (Campania) and Vincenzo Tiri (Basilicata), we returned to the north with Maurizio Bonanomi’s Lombardy, Luigi Biasetto’s Veneto was added. Now the compass points to an unknown territory: Rapallo, Liguria. Canepa is a historic pastry shop active since 1862. The phone call announcing the victory arrives while Andrea Zino is about to finish the dough. His patisserie is a few steps from the sea. On 12 December he will go to Milan to challenge the best in Italy.

Zino has panettone become a typical product of Tigullio?

“But go, here we make the Cubeletto, a cube of shortcrust pastry filled with quince jam”.

“I had a wine shop, 17 years ago I took over this historic place. The production had to be closely followed. So out of necessity I started to be a pastry chef”.

“About the panettone. I got passionate as I never thought I could do in life”.

“It cannot be explained. I am delighted to see the life of the yeast, the panettone that grows in the oven. You feel you are participating in a great thing. I swear, I would never have said that …”

Are you also passionate about the rest of the pastry shop?

“Modern, shiny cakes are beautiful but don’t give satisfaction like panettone”.

How many years does it take to make a good panettone?

“I have been working there for 10 years, I would say at least 7 or 8. I visited the great Italian masters, I visited their laboratories, I participated in the meetings of the Academy of the masters of yeast led by Sal De Riso where we share a lot. and you always learn “.

Okay, but there will be a moment when he said: “My panettone is a bomb”.

“In 2018, after many years of testing, he convinced me. In 2019 I participated in the ‘La Tenzone del Panettone’ competition and I won it. This gave me confidence”.

How is a great leavened product born?

“The knowledge and care of yeast is fundamental. You have to wait, give time to time. And then you need an obsessive attention to the raw material. I envy those who, for example, manage to make candied fruit at home, it is a different emotion. product that grows in your hands and is yours alone “.

I am delighted to see the life of yeast, the panettone that grows in the oven. You feel involved in a great thing

Andrea Zino

What raw material did you use?

“As far as flour is concerned, I am very happy with Mulino Colombo in Paderno d’Adda. The big problem was butter. The good ones all come from France or Belgium. But I wanted it Italian. I solved it with Brazzale, a Vicenza-based company that has prepared a line especially for baked goods. That’s fine. “

Do you make a panettone that tells your territory?

“Panettone di Ponente with candied Taggiasca olives and chinotti. Now I would like to make the one from Levante but the producers of the Cinque Terre don’t want to give me raisins. They need it for Sciacchetrà …”

How many panettone do you make a year?

“I do not exceed 3,500, it is the limit given by my laboratory which is small. I am sorry for those who are left without. For this I ask them to book in time”.

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Christmas surprise: the best panettone comes from Liguria

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